By contrast, conventional paints dry through a process of evaporation, not a chemical reaction. Not surprisingly, epoxy paints emit strong fumes and must be used with care, following the manufacturer's instructions precisely. Ventilate the work area using fans to pull fresh air into the space and to vent the fumes outdoors. Manufacturer's instructions may dictate the use of respirator gear when using epoxy paints.
Do not ignore this recommendation. Try to set realistic expectations before you start the project. Be aware that the effectiveness of these products is limited, and some homeowners who pursue this option come away somewhat disappointed with the results—and weary from the effort and work involved. Before going down this path, remember that painting a shower is permanent.
Future renovations will likely involve full-scale removal and replacement of the shower. Epoxy paint will stick very well, and you won't be able to remove it without damaging the shower materials. If you do end up with some failures—such as cracked, bubbled, or peeling paint—you can repair those spots, but you'll have to buy an entire paint kit to do so.
This is because epoxy paint, once mixed, must be used in a matter of hours. You can't keep an old can of epoxy paint in your basement and pull it out for touch-ups.
Remove metal drains and hardware, using the necessary screwdrivers and plumbing tools. Faucets do not need to be removed, but escutcheon plates and cover plates should be removed, and tub spouts should be removed to provide access to all surfaces. Remove loose paint and rust with a wire brush or sandpaper.
If any damage is present, repair any chips and cracks with a patching compound appropriate to the wall material, such as Liquid Steel or Bondo. Remove any dirty or stained surfaces with an abrasive powdered cleanser and scrubbing sponge. Rinse with clean water and allow the surfaces to dry completely. Scrub the surface with an abrasive pad and a mineral-dissolving product such as Lime-A-Way. Rinse the surfaces, and repeat with a second scrubbing if necessary. Rinse the shower thoroughly and allow it to air-dry completely.
Fill your paint sprayer with a small amount of epoxy primer for a test. If the primer sprays onto the test board evenly, proceed with priming the shower pan. If it does not, thin it with epoxy paint thinner until it sprays smoothly. Start spraying at a low-pressure setting and increase the pressure setting until you achieve uniform coverage. Apply the primer to the fiberglass shower pan with the spray gun. Hold the gun about 12 inches from the surface. Keep the distance consistent and the sprayer in motion.
Make slow, even strokes. Overlap the edge of the previous stroke for each new stroke. My entire life I thought the tile in that bathroom was ivory. Painting it was easy prep took more time and effort , but anyone who considers this should know that it STINKS with a chemical smell. I let my tub sit unused for four whole days for the paint to set. I actually did it right before I went out of town.
I read your post about redoing your bathtub. I have used this product on two bathtubs in the past and it was a nightmare. I used a special Purdy brush that was suggested in the brochure. I had one heck of a time with both tubs. I was just wondering if you used a foam roller? I am looking at redoing one of the in the next couple of weeks and was looking for something a little easier. Thank you for any suggestions you might have. When I was around 10 we painted my gmas entire pink tiled bathroom.
My gma has since passed away and that bathroom still looks great 30 years later! Has a little wear and tear,but for the most part looks awesome. When I told my hubby we had painted the bathroom he asked where? He thought the tile came that color! So I can say,it holds up well! The tile in my bathroom was installed in and is a color not found in nature or anywhere else.
I painted the tile and the tub at our first house. The tile held up really well, but the tub chipped in a few spots. My only tip is if you have old caulking, make sure to scrape it off and then scrub it off before you paint.
Any old silicone residue will cause your paint to not stick. We bought it like that. You were able to use just one box for your tile surround, Ashley? Did you have any leftover or you used the entire batch? Thank you so much for this post. We bought a house 11 years ago that was built in with five bathrooms.
This week we started remodeling the master bath. There was tile surrounding the tub, on the other walls and on the floor. I wanted it all gone as the tile was a mixture of dark blue, light blue, pink and yellow. Probably pretty for the day but not now. This project has turned into a nightmare. A thick wire was nailed to the studs, then a layer of concrete was floated onto the wire, then another layer of concrete was floated onto that, then the tile was inbedded in the concrete.
I worked on the walls all day Friday. I had two guys working on it Saturday. Currently have two guys with large hammer jacks working trying to remove the tile now. They have been here since Monday and hope to be finished by Friday. The bathroom is upstairs. They are filling buckets with tile and concrete and hauling the stuff downstairs to the outside. Last count they had carried out 66 buckets of tile and concrete.
My house is a mess. I had resigned myself that the other bathrooms would remain untouched forever. I will not go through this again. I dislike the tile but not that much. I will try your process on the tile in the other bathrooms. My question is, Does the paint come in colors?
I have a lovely 50s bathroom with blue tile…everywhere: the floor, half of the wall, and in the shower. I am so intrigued by the prospect of painting ceramic tile. Tile floor, tile counter, all in a hidious depressing pattern of burnt orange and chocolate brown..
The tile is in good shape; just hideous. This is a guest bathroom that is very rarely used. I would love to be able to get rid of that heinous tile color until we can afford to do a full-on reno of the room. Karen, in your situation I think painting the floor tile would be a great solution. KarenN, we just refinished all of our ugly stamped cement flooring with a product called spread stone by daichcoatings. They have different coatings for use over any surface, including tile.
Do you think the floor in a shower would hold up as good as the walls or do you think the excessive contact with water will cause it to chip? Porch paint or acrylic with a polyurethane topcoat will work just fine. Love this idea…. Do you happen to know if there any way to tint or add color to this to make it more gray? I would try e-mailing Rustoleum to ask. Thanks for posting an update! And thanks for the awesome pinable image at the top of the post that comes with a caption pre-written!
So thank you for making it super super easy to pin your posts. I live in a townhouse and my bathrooms are the shower tub units. Do you think I could paint this I guess it is fiberglass. Your tub looks really cute! My former landlord had painted a tub in the house we used to rent. Maybe he did it wrong—but it was terrible. Rather than replacing the entire shower unit, it is possible to refurnish the fiberglass base with an epoxy paint designed for bathtubs and showers.
Thoroughly clean the shower base. Remove all dirt, grime, grease and soap scum with an all-purpose cleaning product. Cut and remove old caulking, using a screwdriver or putty knife, then scrape out existing grout with a grout removal tool.
Remove debris, then check for wet spots on caulking, which could indicate a water leak. Repair leakage problems, if necessary, before proceeding.
Keep skin covered at all times.
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